Chasing calmness on Cheung Chau

We sit in the metro car, tired and a bit on the edge. Our plans have unexpectedly changed, and now we are clueless about where to go and what to do. The newfound question seems mountainous, the lights in the ceiling are too bright, and the sounds are piercing in our minds when we are trying to concentrate and come up with a new plan on the go. The train moves along with our thoughts. 

Whampoa it is. We settle on the idea of seeing this area, but it already seems like half of the little energy our sleep-deprived bodies contain is used by making this sole decision. Nevertheless, we find our way to Whampoa and the boat on land, only to discover the subtle disappointment flowing through us. Despite being tired, we cannot call this a day, and our next pin on the map is Cheung Chau. Following the crowd onto the ferry like sheep being shepherded into the fencing, we are hopeful that the next stop will offer just a bit more excitement. 

We are docking at Cheung Chau, and the first sight meeting us is Seven Eleven, Wellcome, McDonald’s and a sea of people wandering on the promenade. Instantly, my hopes are shot down, and under the baking sun, I start to regret the choice of sailing an hour through a fierce wind to reach this. We look at each other and start laughing. There is not much to do but go ashore and see what this seemingly popular island has to show. 

We start by looking for the renowned mango mochi, but throwing money after something unreal is not our cup of tea. It must be the best mochi. The shop selling these should be just around the corner, except it is not. We walk in circles, Google Maps assiduously showing us the directions with the little red arrow spinning around, just like our heads. 

After having walked through the same alley twice and past a shop selling dried fish, emitting a distinctive odour in the warm and humid weather, four times, the pursuit of the best mochi falls, and we end up buying the next best thing, which, as we have not tried the one, is approved by our taste buds. 

Colourful boats are anchored along the promenade, men are raising bright and golden flags, preparing for the Bun Festival we later discover. People swarm from all sides, and surely the only right thing to do amidst this chaotic scene is to find our way to the beach where a cold beer can cool us down. 

So off we go, in and out of crowds, taking in the little village life on our way. The path leads us to a peaceful beach, and listening to the gentle, everlasting sighs of the waves, droplets of condensation water from the cold beer meeting our palms, this appears to be the perfect spot to rest in. What we don’t know is Cheung Chau has more to offer our hungry souls. 

The beers are empty, the snacks are gone, and our feet trip impatiently. We get up, and before returning to the pier, we come across a small hike, more like a walk, on The Little Great Wall. 

Curious as we are, we follow the signs and, after ascending a few steps, find ourselves looking out over the vast blue sea from an astonishing rock formation. Caves materialise on one side, rock towers with holes and incredible shapes on the other. Further down the trail is another large cliff looking out onto the marvellous and tranquil ocean, and the hectic morning is gone with the wind. 

At the end of the road, peace was hidden, and on this bare and brusque rock, we find the calmness that we have longed for in days.